Posted by Ayla Franken
on May 21, 2025
The plant-based way to cool brown tones
Katam is a natural hair dye derived from the dried and ground leaves of the Buxus dioica plant. Traditionally used in regions of Yemen, katam is also gaining popularity in the natural cosmetics scene in Europe – especially for those seeking a plant-based alternative to chemical hair dyes and who prefer cool, dark shades.
What is Katam?
At first glance, katam looks like indigo – and indeed, the two plants are similar in their effects and applications. Both color hair in cool shades, but katam tends towards violet-brown to dark chocolate tones, while indigo tends towards bluish-dark hues. Furthermore, katam is considered somewhat gentler and has a slightly lower coloring potential than indigo, but it provides soft, deep highlights and is particularly kind to the skin.
Application & Mixing Ratios
Katam is not suitable for coloring light hair on its own – it is always used in combination with henna or cassia. For very light or white hair, a two-step process is recommended.
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Pre-pigmentation with henna – e.g., 30–60 minutes application time.
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Re-dyeing with katam or katam-indigo mixture – for cool, dark final tones.
Possible mixing ratios (guide values):
| Henna (%) | Katam (%) | Indigo (%) | Result (depending on starting hair color) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 70 | 30 | – | Copper brown with a cool undertone |
| 50 | 50 | – | Medium brown, cool |
| 30 | 70 | – | Dark brown with a violet reflection |
| 50 | 30 | 20 | Dark brown with a soft transition |
| – | 50 | 50 | Very dark brown to black |
| 10 | 60 | 30 | Cool chocolate nuance |
| 40 | 40 | 20 | Natural chestnut brown |
You can also add small amounts of cassia (neutral) to slightly lighten the shade or soften the color intensity, especially for fine or damaged hair.
Exposure time and application
The mixture should be prepared with warm water (approx. 50°C) as with other plant-based hair dyes and, after a 5–10 minute resting period, generously applied to freshly washed, towel-dried hair. The processing time – depending on the desired color depth – is between 40 and 120 minutes. The longer the dye is left on, the darker and more intense the result will be.
Differences to Indigo
| aspect | Katam | indigo |
|---|---|---|
| shade | Cool brown, violet reflections | Dark blue, blue-black |
| intensity | Milder | Very strong staining |
| compatibility | Very skin-friendly | May irritate sensitive scalps. |
| gradient | Soft | Rather striking, with high contrast |
| oxidation | Slower | Visible more quickly |
Conclusion
Katam is a versatile, natural dye for anyone wanting to achieve cool brown and chocolate tones with plant-based hair color. Combined with henna and indigo, it allows you to create a wide variety of shades – individually adaptable to your hair type and desired tone. Whether you prefer warm chestnut brown or deep espresso, Katam makes plant-based hair coloring even more versatile.
