Plant-based hair dyes – effects, application & background

Plant-based hair dyes are the natural alternative to chemical dyes. They condition the hair during the coloring process, protect the hair structure, and create unique, vibrant shades. On this page, you'll find complete instructions, detailed background information on hair structure, and practical tips for application and care. Ideal for anyone who wants to color their hair naturally.

The structure of the hair

A human hair consists of three layers: the cuticle (scale layer), the cortex (fiber layer), and, in part, the medulla (medulla). The cuticle is the outermost layer and protects the hair. It functions like a pine cone – when the scales lie flat, the hair appears smooth and healthy.

The cortex determines hair color and structure. It contains the color pigments (melanins) that make hair appear blonde, brown, red, or black. These pigments are absent in gray hair.

How plant-based hair dyes work

Unlike chemical dyes, plant-based hair dyes don't penetrate the hair shaft but gently coat it. The color pigments from henna, indigo, katam , or cassia bind to the cuticle, giving the hair not only color but also shine and strength. The final shade is achieved by interacting with your natural hair color.

The coloring is oxidative: By mixing with warm water, plant glycosides are converted into their color-active form and only develop their effect upon drying and exposure to oxygen.

Step-by-step instructions

1. Preparation

• It is best to wash your hair with a natural soap (e.g. Aleppo soap or Sidr ) before coloring to remove residues of styling products or greases.
• Do not use conditioner or oil before dyeing.

2. Amount of plant powder

• Short hair / roots: 50–80 g
• Shoulder length hair: approx. 100g
• Very long hair: up to 120 g

3. Mixing the paste

Always put the powder into a bowl first. Then gradually add warm water and stir well until a creamy, not too runny paste is formed.

Temperature tip: The water should be about 50–60 °C warm – not boiling! You can use it as a guide if it feels pleasantly warm to your fingertips, but doesn't burn.

4. Applying the paste

• Option 1: Divide hair into four sections, then apply strand by strand from roots to tips.
• Option 2: Massage in the paste generously – easier, but possibly less precise.
• For root touch-ups, apply strand by strand only to the roots.

Plant-based hair dyes are deposited on the hair in layers with each dyeing process. As a result, the lengths may become slightly darker over time.
If you want to avoid this, it is recommended to only touch up the roots and briefly treat the lengths if necessary.

5. Keep warm & exposure time

• After application: cling film or shower cap + warm wool hat.
• Optional: additional red light lamp or sunlight.
• Processing time depending on hair structure and desired color: 1–4 hours.
• The longer the application time, the more intense and lasting the color.

• Mixing ratios & shades

Basic ingredients and their effects:

• Henna: For strong, warm red tones – especially long-lasting.
• Indigo: For dark to black tones.
• Katam: For ashy, cool brown and dark tones.
• Cassia (neutral henna): Colorless conditioning treatment, gives blonde hair a golden shine.

Color effect depending on the proportion:

• The more henna , the redder and warmer the result.
• The more katam or indigo , the darker and cooler the color.
• The more cassia , the brighter and more natural it looks.

Example mixtures:

• Warm brown: 50% Henna + 50% Katam
• Golden Blonde: 90% Cassia + 10% Henna
• Ginger: 100% Henna or 90% Henna + 10% Cassia
• Light brown: 50% Cassia + 30% Katam + 20% Henna
• Ash Blonde: 70% Cassia + 25% Katam + 5% Henna
• Black: 1st step henna, 2nd step indigo (with a 24-hour interval)
  
  
• Two-step procedure:
  First, the hair is pre-pigmented with henna. After about 24 hours, a second coloring with indigo or katam follows to achieve a deep dark shade.

Tip:
Katam and indigo should always be combined with a little henna to make the color last longer and become more even. Which plant works best depends heavily on your hair type – it's worth experimenting.

Optional:
Amla for more volume, Sidr for care or fixation on sensitive scalps.

Katam & Indigo – the right combination:

Katam and indigo should always be mixed with a little henna so that the color adheres better to the hair and lasts longer.
Both plants produce similar tones in the dark brown to black color spectrum.
Which option works better for you depends on your hair structure and the color you want – some hair absorbs indigo better, others katam.
The only way to find out is to try things and observe what your hair prefers.

After dyeing

• Rinse the paste thoroughly with water only, do not use shampoo!
• Optional: Adding vinegar to the final rinse helps seal the scale layer.
• Do not wash for 1-3 days to allow the color to fully oxidize.
• Apply an oil treatment overnight (e.g., with hair oil or olive oil) before the first wash.
• For cleaning, we recommend our Sidr washing powder – mild, color-preserving and conditioning.

Hints & Tips

• Do not add any acidic or fatty substances (e.g., lemon, yogurt, oil) to the paste.
• Test on fallen-out hairs beforehand to assess the color tone.
• Always pre-pigment grey hair with henna to avoid a greenish tint.
• For very dark color, work in two steps: Henna + Indigo/Katam.