← Back to the Knowledge Hub

Plant-based hair color: effects, application & background

Plant-based hair colors are the natural alternative to chemical dyes. They care for your hair while coloring, protect the hair structure and give lively shades. Here you will find the essentials on effects, mixtures and care. The complete step-by-step instructions are right here.

The structure of the hair

A hair consists of three layers: the cuticle (scale layer), the cortex (fiber layer) and, in part, the medulla. The cuticle is the outermost layer and protects the hair. Like a pine cone, the hair looks smooth and healthy when the scales lie flat.

The cortex holds the color pigments (melanins) that make hair look blonde, brown, red or black. Gray hair lacks these pigments.

How plant-based hair colors work

Unlike chemical dyes, plant-based hair colors do not penetrate the inside of the hair but coat it protectively. The dyes from henna, indigo, katam or cassia bind to the cuticle and give the hair shine and strength as well as color. The final shade comes from the interplay with your natural hair color.

The color develops through oxygen: mixing with warm water releases the dyes, and the hair keeps darkening for 24 to 48 hours after rinsing.

The plants and their effects

• Henna: strong, warm red tones, especially long-lasting
• Indigo: dark to black tones
• Katam: cool, ashy brown and dark tones
• Cassia (neutral henna): conditions and gives blonde hair a golden shine

The more henna, the redder and warmer the result. The more katam or indigo, the darker and cooler. The more cassia, the lighter and more natural.

Example mixtures

• Ginger: 100% henna or 90% henna + 10% cassia
• Golden blonde: 90% cassia + 10% henna
• Ash blonde: 70% cassia + 25% katam + 5% henna
• Light brown: 50% cassia + 30% katam + 20% henna
• Warm brown: 50% henna + 50% katam
• Black: henna first, then indigo (in two steps)

The Botanical Color Lab calculates all mixtures with amounts for your hair length.

How much powder you need

• Roots only: approx. 80 g
• Short to shoulder length: approx. 100 g
• Long, past the shoulders: approx. 150 g

For thick hair, use a little more. Mix the powder with 50 to 60 °C warm water (not boiling) into a creamy paste. It does not need to rest before applying.

Application and processing time

• Wash your hair beforehand with a natural soap or sidr, without conditioner or oil.
• Divide your hair into sections and apply strand by strand from roots to tips. For a root touch-up, apply only at the roots.
• Cover with cling film or a shower cap and keep warm, for example with a hat.
• Processing time: at least 60 minutes. The longer, the more intense and lasting the color.

For blonde shades, a shorter processing time of about 30 minutes to 1.5 hours is enough, depending on the intensity you want.

Plant-based hair colors build up in layers with each coloring. The lengths can get darker over time. If you want to avoid that, only touch up the roots.

Dark shades and gray hair: two steps

For black, deep dark brown and to cover gray hair, you color in two steps: first with henna, then with indigo or katam. You do the second step right afterwards or the next day. This keeps the hair from getting a green tint and makes the color rich.

After coloring

• Rinse out the paste thoroughly with water only, no shampoo.
• Optional: vinegar in the last rinse closes the scale layer.
• The color keeps darkening for 24 to 48 hours. Avoid washing your hair during this time.
• An overnight oil treatment before the first wash is beneficial.
• For washing, we recommend our sidr hair wash powder: mild, color-preserving and conditioning.

Good to know

• Do not add acidic or fatty ingredients (lemon, yogurt, oil) to the paste.
• Test the color on a strand or on shed hair first.
• If you have sensitive skin, do a patch test in the crook of your arm beforehand.
• Result not as expected? Coloring again can usually adjust the shade.

Any questions? Feel free to write to us via the contact form.